But if you’re willing to risk it, there are second hand V- amp 2′s coming in quite regularly over here:
In Store Used USED BEHRINGER V AMP 2 Standard.
Obviously they’re not all priced that low.
If you’ve read a bit on my blog, you might realize that I already own the Boss gt pro, so why on earth would I be interested in the V-Amp 2 or 3?
Well, firstly, I used to own a V-amp. The original one with only 16 amp models.
I got some excellent sounds out of that thing and totally enjoyed playing on it, both live and in the studio, which brings me to my second reason.
I need something for my other PC which I’m setting up as a late night alternative studio. These things record very well.
The V-Amp 3 is perfect for recording, seeing as it’s got the USB option and comes with recording software. By recording software I mean an entire multitrack recording program for the computer. Kind of makes sense, seeing as there’s a usb audio interface bundled with it.
If you’re buying a few more items, then maybe this is your best bet.
The standard best price at the moment is 130 dollars with free shipping –
Behringer V-Amp 3 Guitar Multi Effect Processor Standard
Anyway, this got me thinking back to the time when the V-amp was my main guitar recording gear, so I went through the list of songs I’d made backing tracks of, and I thought I’d just share an audio clip here for those who’ve never heard a V-amp before.
The following was done using an Ibanez S series Prestige guitar, and recorded straight into the desk.
The difference between the first V-Amp and the V-Amp 2, as far as I can tell, is that there’s twice as many amplifier models.
I think the V-amp 3 looks like a good deal with the extra features, but if you don’t think you need them, and you’ve got your studio recording software of choice, then maybe the Vamp 2 is fine, if you’ve got one.
What I found with the speaker cabinet models on the original V-amp, was that only one or two of them worked great for all the amplifier types, but if you sit with a recording and try emulate a particular sound, you can find other speaker and amp mixtures that get quite close.
Well, I’ve been waiting for the V-Amp 3
so I guess I should get one.
Filed under: guitar tone — play electric guitar @ 12:25 pm
So why another post on the Boss GT Pro when I’ve already written a review?
Well firstly, after finishing Parisian walkways, it’s hard not to share what is fast becoming my favorite guitar sound yet on the GT pro.
Seeing as I’ve already recommended it very highly as a guitar effects processor and amp modeler, It’s kind of my duty to make sure I publish a good sound patch when I find one, and anything else that may be helpful
I need to make some correction on my Boss GT pro review, mostly about the stomp box models, seeing as I’ve at least found some good use for them.
Someone may find it useful.
Let’s just say it feels like Christmas in July. Finding a new amplifier and stomp box that was already mine but I never knew I had.
All because the boss said “here’s a recording of Parisian walkways. Make it”
After years and years of turning down requests to learn and play Parisian walkways, it finally happened. I had no choice but to make a backing track of Gary Moore’s Parisian Walkways, both with and without the lead guitar.
Gary Moore uses a Gibson Les Paul into a Marshall Guvnor distortion peddle going into a Marshall amp. Unfortunately I don’t have a Gibson Les Paul, a Marshall amplifier or a Guvnor distortion peddle.
Here’s what I used: A Marathone guitar which now has Schaller Hotstuff pickups in, and a Boss GT Pro. The guitar recording was done straight into the PC via USB.
There are 2 things to note here:
1.) The Marshall guvnor simulation on the Boss GT pro sounds nothing like a real Marshall Guv’nor.
2.) Whereas Gary Moore plays Parisian walkways mostly on the neck pickup, I used the bridge pickup because my neck pickup is wired with a permanent coil tap and will never sound the same as a Gibson humbucker.
Admittedly, it doesn’t sound exactly like the original, but the guv’nor simulation added a touch of grit to the sound which I found quite fun to play with, especially on the lower notes.
One of the signs of a good amplifier model, is whether it retains its tonal character when you back off on the guitars volume. This Marshall simulation does that quite well.
I didn’t copy Gary’s ending, I made my own. I cheated a bit by adding the feedbacker effect, which worked out quite well with the volume backed off.
Here are the settings I used in the order they are in the effects chain:
Overdrive: Guvnor (GUV DS). Drive 35, Bottom -22, Tone -50, effect level 100, Direct level 0.
Preamp: Channel mode = single, Type MS1959(1), Gain 16, Bass 76, Middle 40, Treble 52, Presence 45, Level 54, Gain switch is High, Solo switch is off, Speaker type is 8×12″, Mic type CND87, Mic distance = On Mic, Mic position = 7, Mic level is 100 and direct level is 0.
EQ: Low cut 55 Hz, Low EQ +5db, Lo mid frequency is 0db, High mid frequency 4 kHz, Hi mid Q 1, Hi mid EQ +3db, High EQ 0db, High cut is flat, and EQ level is 0db.
Noise suppressor: On, Threshold 50, Release 30, and Detect = input.
Digital delay: Type = Pan, Delay time 536ms, Tap time 50%, Feedback 24, High cut 11.0kHz, Effect level 14, Direct level 100.
Reverb: Type = Hall 1, Reverb time 2.5 seconds, Pre Delay 0ms, Low cut 165Hz, High cut 4kHz, Density 10, Effect level 39, Direct level 100.
What also works quite nicely is to replace the Guvnor with the Booster pedal. It’s a cleaner sound but also good for classic rock.
Boss GT-Pro Guitar Multi Effects Processor
Filed under: guitar tone — play electric guitar @ 8:42 pm
Is the Boss GT pro better than earlier models.
When Roland first came out with their COSM effects processors, I bought one – the Roland GP 100, after which I took a long break before buying anymore of their stuff.
I wasn’t convinced they had solved the amplifier simulation problem, but seeing as I’d bought the thing, I did my best to get a decent sound out of it.
Listening to my old recordings with it, they turned out sounding quite good, but I had to do a lot of tweaking back then to get those sounds.
A lot later I bought the Boss GT 6, and initially I was very disappointed with it, then I learned a few tricks like using the booster peddle simulation to improve the amplifier models tone, and which amplifier models worked best.
I slowly fell in love with it, but like most Roland and Boss products at the time, you had to really experiment and tweak. Once you found your formula it was plain sailing.
Composite object sound modeling is supposed to simulate the sound of various guitar amplifiers, and I think they’re a lot closer now.
The truth of the matter is that sometimes they’re so darn good that the thought of them bringing out a newer version bothers me.
What if they don’t have the same amplifier models I use now, or they change it so it doesn’t sound the same?
I was lucky when I moved up from the Boss GT 6 that they still had the same Peavey 5150 model that I liked so much in the GT pro, and it sounded much the same.
The Marshall models seem to have changed, but I prefer them now.
Here’s the real difference, and why I’m glad I took a leap of faith.
The sound is clearer, almost brighter, but in a good way. maybe this has something to do with the increased bit depth.
When you’ve found the amplifier simulation that you like, there’s very little tweaking needed or eq. On the GT 6 there where certain tricks that I learnt to get the most out of an amplifier model, but the GT pro doesn’t need them. Also, they don’t work the same. This is a completely different animal.
Now I can record straight into my PC’s usb port, and the noise level is virtually non existent. No more banging my Mackie mixing desk to sort out the dry joints either.
A separate compressor, independent of FX 1 or 2 groups.
The dual channels are one of my favorite features, seeing as you get to have a different amplifier model for the left and right channels, and delay one of them by up to 50 milliseconds. Here’s a recording of my favorite 5150 stereo split – Boss GT-pro dual channel rock demo – Custom patch
The sound over headphones is virtually the same as what comes out the monitors. On the GT 6 this wasn’t the case. Late night jamming just got a whole lot more fun.
It’s rack mountable, so for the studio it’s perfect. I was getting tired of leaning over to change things on the floor. My back isn’t what it used to be.
Here’s some of the things I’m not too excited about with the GT pro.
The acoustic guitar sounds, both for turning an electric guitar sound into an acoustic one or making an acoustic guitars piezzo electric transducer sound like a miked up acoustic just don’t do it for me. They do have some use though, like background strums or making things sound different.
The distortion and overdrive peddles they’ve modeled don’t behave the same as their analog counterparts, but to be perfectly honest with you, I haven’t fiddled with them too much. It’s kind of pointless when you’ve got some great amplifier models to do the same job better.
No foot peddles, but I guess I knew I’d have to buy them separate.
There is only one speaker cabinet simulation that’s worth using, which is the 8 by 12 double stack. This is about the same as the GT 6, so no big difference there. Would have been nice to have more though.
If you’re thinking of buying a Boss GT-Pro, or you want a bigger picture and some user reviews, you can click the image above for more info.
Sure, there may be some differences, and sometimes Boss is off the mark a bit, especially in some of their original speaker models, but nothing that a bit of good eq can’t fix. This is so much more than just getting by, and believe me, I’ve plugged guitars into real valve amplifiers that didn’t sound half as good as what’s coming out of this digital box.
Admittedly this isn’t always the case, but when you’ve got so much to work with, you inevitably find what you’re looking for. Here’s a video I made to demonstrate one of the Marshall patches I use. The settings are further down the page.
Boss GT Pro patches I’ve made myself that you can copy.
This first one is the sound patch I used for point 5 of “Here’s the real difference”. I called this one 5150 drive stereo.
The preamp channel mode is Dual – Left and right, and shows D-L/R. Channel delay time is set at 50ms, which seems to be one setting for both channels.
Channel A: Type is 5150 drive. Gain is 8, bass is 80, middle is 100, treble is 60, presence is 0, level is 64, gain switch (Gain SW) is high, Solo SW is off, speaker type is 8×12″, mic type is CND87, mic distance is On Mic, mic position is 7, mic level is 100 and direct level is 0.
Channel B: Type is Metal Lead, Gain is 8, Bass 80, Middle 70, Treble 100, presence 85, Level 45, Gain switch is High, Solo is off, Speaker 8×12″, microphone type is CND87, mic dis = on, mic pos = 10, and again the mic level is 100 while the direct sound is 0.
EQ settings: Equalizer on, Low cut 55hz, Low EQ +10dB, Lo-Mid is 0dB so no need to worry with that one. Hi-Mid f (frequency) is 4.00kHz, Hi Mid Q = 1, Hi Mid EQ +3dB. High EQ is 0dB and High cut is flat. Level is 0dB which just means your not boosting the signal but the EQ still works.
Delay settings: These aren’t really crucial to the sound, and it’s always a matter of personal preference, but here’s what I’ve used for this one. Type = Pan, Delay time = 536ms, Tap time = 50%, feedback = 24, High cut = 11.0kHz, Effect level is 14% and direct level is 100%
Signal FX chain: I like keeping things as close to what they would be in the real world so no biggie here. Preamp first, then EQ, Noise gate, Digital Delay. I don’t know why the noise gate is there where it is, but it seems to work.
My Marshall amplifier simulation on the GT Pro.
This one works great for a bluesy Stevie Ray Vaughn sound stratocaster neck pickup position, and cleans up very nicely when you back off a bit on the guitars volume control. It’s also quite effective as a main hard rock sound when you use higher output humbucking pickups.
Here are the settings:Channel mode is Single, Channel select is channel A, Type is MS HiGain, Gain is 8, Bass 80, Middle 50, Treble 50, Presence 0, Level 50, Gain SW High, Solo Off, Speaker type is 8×12″ again (the only one I use), Mic Type CND87, Mic Dis = on mic, Mic Pos = 7, Mic Level = 100, Direct level 0.
EQ settings: These are the same as 5150 stereo, but here they are again anyway. Equalizer on, Low cut 55hz, Low EQ +10dB, Lo-Mid is 0dB so frequency doesn’t matter. Hi-Mid f (frequency) is 4.00kHz, Hi Mid Q = 1, Hi Mid EQ +3dB. High EQ is 0dB and High cut is flat.
Delay settings: Same as 5150 patch above. Okay, I’m getting lazy now.
Reverb: Type is Hall 1, time 2.5s, pre delay 0ms, Low cut 165 Hz, High cut 4.00kHz, Density 10, Effect level 39 and direct level 100. The effect chain is the same as 5150, but with reverb after the delay.
Filed under: guitar tone — play electric guitar @ 4:35 pm
The three key elements to a great rock guitar tone.
I guess I was fortunate, seeing as I spent a small fortune on equipment that didn’t do what it promised in the adverts. The pure heart stopping distortion that the ART SGX 2000 advert promised it would deliver, turned out to be the one purchase that would teach me the hard way to getting the sound I wanted.
The situation is no different nowadays, guitar effects processors consistently disappoint me at first, only to wow me later when I’ve learned their secret.
I think it’s a given that most guitar effects processors are mediocre at best when you listen to the factory presets.
The first key to great rock guitar tone.
You have to plug a decent guitar in first, it’s just an unavoidable fact, but that’s not what I’m talking about here. I’m just going to assume that you’ve got that sorted out.
The first key element is the basic distortion characteristics. A sound might be thin and uneventful, but if the underlying tone has the right character, it can be made into something great.
To illustrate this point, I’ve got a no-name brand overdrive-distortion pedal that was recommended by a friend.
It’s called a Ken Multi multiple effects MME-7. See, I told you it was a no-name brand. This thing has the right tonal character but sounds terrible through the wrong amplifier.
This is because many amplifiers are missing the other two key ingredients to a great rock tone.
So that basically for me, is the first step towards your dream rock guitar sound – A great sounding guitar into something that distorts the signal the right way.
The tricky thing here is that it’s difficult to determine if step one is correct until you’ve got steps two and three down.
How to eq a good rock guitar sound.
There are two main frequencies that I look at when trying to get the right distorted tone. These are the bass and upper midrange frequencies.
Maybe you’ve experienced this before, where you get a great sound on your amplifier, then take the same amp to a friends place only to find that for some strange reason it just doesn’t sound right anymore.
Chances are that it’s an open back combo, but not necessarily. The only difference is that it’s in a different room, and each room has a different frequency response.
If I’m using a guitar amp with an open back speaker cabinet, I like to have the amplifier set up close to a wall for added bass. Depending on the speaker though, this isn’t always needed.
If you have a good amp with great distortion then you don’t need to worry too much about frequencies and tweaking, but if your amplifier has one of those horrible fuzzy distortions that don’t sound like the tube amp it’s supposed to emulate, then here are the critical areas you need to look at.
Does your guitar amp have an effects loop?
If so you’re in luck, cos now all you need is a small graphic eq. One of those regular 10 band eq pedals will do the trick, but you can also try a 7 band graphic for this.
The 10 band graphic I would recommend is the MXR M108 10-Band Graphic Equalizer Pedal seeing as it’s the one I’ve used myself, and has all the right frequencies.
Bass frequency: Here I tend to favor the frequencies around 100 hz . I find 250 hz sometimes makes things sound a bit too boxy, but it’s always an option to add just a little, depending on the sound that’s already coming out.
Upper midrange: The crucial frequency here is 4 khz. If the sound is too fuzzy, I take down everything above 5 khz, and I mean right down. I replace whatever high end is missing with 4 khz.
If the sound gets too piercing, easing back on the 4k and adding back a bit of the top end frequencies can help balance things out again.
These are basic principles that work, whether you’re playing through a guitar amp or recording direct.